At the end of my first year at Sheffield, I was told to go to Geneva and work on the experiment there. I was living in an old Victorian house near the university, sharing with five others, one of whom (Ken, he of the urine sample saga) I have written about before. Another was Simon, who coincidentally had landed a position in Milan teaching English as a Foreign Language, so we decided we would drive over together. This was quite an epic journey to undertake in my Renault 12, which had seen better days.
We set off very early one morning, and drove down to Dover to catch the ferry, and from Calais we headed off to Geneva, via Paris and Dijon. I can’t remember the details of the journey, except long stretches of empty roads across middle France, lined with trees, which could be driven at exciting speeds. Did we do the journey all in one go (about 1500km)? I don’t remember, but I think so.
I remember arriving in the centre of Geneva, at Place Cornavin, and parking the car. I’d arranged that we could stay with a friend I’d met at a Summer School the previous year, called Andy. Andy was a long-haired, hippy-looking individual, who was about as easy going as you can imagine, and I liked him a lot. He was working on a different experiment from me: his was searching for hyperons, whereas mine was looking at photoproduction. I had only a vague idea where Andy lived: somewhere just over the border in France, in Haut St. Genis. After phoning him up and getting directions, we set off again in the Renault, heading out through Servette, through Meyrin, past CERN, and then across the border into France, and then to St. Genis.
Just as we passed through the village, the road started to climb, and the Renault died. It just sputtered and died, and we coasted to the side of the road.
We got out, and peered under the bonnet. I knew far less about cars then than I do now, and all I could tell was that the engine hadn’t disappeared. We sat disconsolately on the boot, and discussed what to do. This was well before cellphones, and so we were faced with hoofing back to St. Genis and finding a telephone.
Just then a car appeared coming towards us. It pulled over, and a Frenchman got out: a tanned, handsome, and athletic looking bloke of about thirty. If he’d been about a foot taller he’d have been seriously hunky, but in fact he was quite short.
I can’t remember the exchange, but I know he didn’t speak any English, and neither Simon or I spoke much French. When he saw the address I had written down on a scrap of paper, his face brightened. He went to his car, opened the boot, and brought out a tow rope, which he attached to the Renault, and then to his. And off we went: towed up to Haut St. Genis, arriving at Andy’s house a few moments later. It was great!
It transpired that the guy who had helped us was a local fireman, and Andy was shagging his wife. I doubt he would have been so helpful had he known. Her name was Martine, and she was profoundly sexy in that indefinable French way: she had short blond hair, angular features, and never wore a bra, and so her breasts were constantly jiggling about and oscillating in a most hypnotic fashion.
In addition to Martine, the other person in the house when we arrived was Dick. He, like Andy, was from Bristol, and he had come to Geneva many years before, to work on an experiment, and had basically never returned. He had no job as far as I could tell, and quite how he supported himself was mysterious, but I’m sure had something to do with drugs. Dick was a Lovely Person: he had a huge fuck-off beard, and he spoke softly, gently, his eyes twinkling. He was always smiling. Nothing perturbed him: everything was wonderful, and mellow, and cool. An archetypical hippie, he was a real pleasure to be with – he was so laid back he was essentially horizontal.
The house they lived in was a huge 1970s built ranch-style edifice with many rooms, and a massive sitting room, that was dominated by a large open fireplace in which logs always seemed to be burning.
Anyway, the next morning, Andy and I took Simon down to the train station in Geneva, and put him on a train to Milan. That’s the last I ever saw of him: I’ve not heard from him since, and that would be in 1981. Andy and I went across the river to a car parts shop in an ancient and run-down building. It was called Victor Merz – I just remembered that! And Victor sold us a new alternator for the Renault. What is puzzling me as I recall this is how we knew the alternator was bad? I have a vague notion that Dick knew about cars, so maybe he had diagnosed the problem. Moreover, I am sure I didn’t install the new one: who did that? Perhaps I, too, was so mellowed out by the company of Dick and Andy, not to mention the heady smoke that was permanently wafting around, that I was wandering around doing stuff in a daze?
And that was about it: the Renault was repaired, and a few days later I moved out of Dick and Andy’s house, to much inferior accommodations I prefer to remain vague about for the moment.
But while I was in Haut St. Genis, there were a couple of French girls who were often there in the evenings, smoking pot with Dick and Andy in front of the fire. One was blond haired, the other brown haired, and they were both rather attractive. In retrospect I am sure that the brown haired girl (I wish I could remember her name, Sylvie?) was hitting on me, but I was young and naive, and slightly scared of them both, and British, that I did nothing about it. They were always giggling when they were looking at me. One evening in particular I remember this Sylvia coming over and sitting very close to me on the sofa, as Dick looked on with his benevolent smile, and Andy downed his twentieth beer of the night. To my lasting shame and regret I did nothing to reciprocate the gesture. What was I thinking? What was I afraid of? I have no idea, and it has rankled with me ever since, as these things do.
A couple of years later, I saw Sylvie and her friend at the Clemence in Place Bourg de Four, the trendy night spot in old town Geneva. I was completely tongue tied, and suffered the humiliation of being giggled at again.
What became of Dick? The last I heard was that he had eventually returned to England, and lived in a caravan in woods just outside Bristol. He had been nicked for possession, and went to prison for a while. Shortly after he came out, he died tragically, although I don’t know how. RIP Dick. As for Andy, I have lost touch with him, but saw him five or six years ago, which is how I know about Dick’s demise.
Addendum: I searched around and found that Victor Merz went out of business in 1996. Some details:
Firma:
Victor Merz SA en liq. par suite de faillite
(CH-660.0.079.961-9)
Domizil: Rue du Stand 31
1204 Genève
Lageplan Lageplan | weitere Firmen
Status: gelöscht
Löschdatum: 10.11.1999
Rechtsform: Aktiengesellschaft
Kapital: CHF 100'000
Sitz: Genève (GE)
Zweck: Administration: 1 ou plusieurs membres