Warning: Opinionated stuff about wine follows! Beware.
Part One
I first started drinking wine in quantity when I moved to Switzerland in the early ’80s. I developed quite a taste for it, and soon came to prefer it over a pint of “Scruttock’s Old Dirigible”, which had been my favoured tipple in Old Blighty.
I had a lot of friends who liked wine, too. And some of them had copies of Hugh Johnson (a handy little booklet that lists good vintages, vineyards and bottlers), sections of which they had clearly committed to memory. This made for some painful procedures at the start of any meal, along the lines of rejecting the Chateau Chiroply ’95 in favour of the Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus ’96 since the autumn of ’95 had been a little moister than ideal, and the grape treaders in Chiroply a little less enthusiastic due to a bout of Napoleonic ‘flu in the village.
At that time I drank exclusively reds. Preferably full-bodied Burgundies from good years, with an occasional Bordeaux if I was feeling frisky. If you’d offered me an Italian Bardolino, or a Spanish Rioja, I would have declined. I was for the great French wines, the wines of Bergundy, and I would settle for little else. Which leads me to my first rule:
If you want a truly great bottle of wine, it must be French, and it must be a good year.
and its corollary:
If you choose such a wine, you will pay dear.
It is possible to buy great French wine at bargain prices. I have done it. In fact I have about 500 bottles of what is now probably truly astounding wine laid down in the cellar of the house I use to own in France. The trick is to buy it young, directly from the Chateaux, and lay it down. If you salt away enough, then after about 5 years, the first bottles you laid down will be drinking well now and you can start to reap the harvest of your toil and expense. But you have to keep buying and laying it down. Which leads to the second rule:
If you lay wine down, lay it down in the right place!
This means you need a cave i.e. a cool place undergound out of direct sunlight, preferably with space for several thousand bottles (equivalent to a bottle a night for just three years if you set about drinking the contents). There’s no point in laying down a few cases of Chateau Margaux ’03 in the laundry room, only to find it’s turned to vinegar when you crack open the first bottle on New Year’s Eve 2008!
So much for expensive French reds. I fairly soon realised that there were plenty of red wines that were extremely good, and were not French, and specifically not expensive. They were never going to reach the heights of exquisite taste of a vintage Nuits Saint Georges, but they were still very good indeed. In fact at this point I’d had my fill of French reds because, unless you paid a lot, they were awful. Hence the third rule:
There’s no wine worse than a cheap Burgundy. Except perhaps a cheap Bordeaux.
If you’re looking at a wine list and see what appears to be a bargain bottle of French red wine: don’t pick it! There is a very good reason why it’s cheap.
The wines I moved to were the Italian reds. On my way there I toyed for a while with Spanish Riojas, which at their best have that oaky taste, browny-red colour, and humungous nose, that good Burgundy has.
The Italian reds are super, and the epitome of cheap and cheerful. I’m bundling a lot of wines into that statement, but I’m thinking of Valpolicella, Barollo, Chianti, Bardolino. To me, what makes them especially good is that they seem to improve by being drunk slightly chilled. Frankly, on a sweaty Italian night in the Piazza Agostini watching the Vespas buzz around, and i ragazzi saying “ciao”, the last thing I want to drink is a heavy red wine served in a poncy tall-stemmed glass at 80 degrees Fahrenheit: I want a fruity, light, chilly tumbler of Valpo to wash my fettucine down with! E vero! So to rule number four:
Italian reds are reliably good, and should preferably be drunk chilled from tumblers while riding a Vespa
This concludes Part One of the guide. In Part Two I will address whites, exotics (retsina, spumante, frizzata etc.), desert wines and how to tell if a wine is “corked”.